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Car guys, what is this repair going to cost me?

_Chase_

_Chase_

All-American
Jan 22, 2004
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My wife has a 2006 Jeep Commander, and this morning the check engine light came on, and it started jerking/missing when you hit about 40 mph. I took it to Autozone and had them hook it up. It showed the following codes:
Cylinder 6 misfireEngine oil pressure sensorTransmission fluid temperature sensor

Any of you gear heads know ballpark what I'm looking at to fix these issues? I know absolutely jack shit about cars, so I'd be easily ripped off. TIA.
 
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All I know is failed sensors aren't too cheap.. Someone here will know more about pricing.

But unless you are a Jeep enthusiast, you might want to rethink what looks to be a costly repair on a car that is now over 10 years old with probably more than 100k miles. I personally hate dealing with anything car related. I think it's one of the biggest scumbag industries, from dealer owners, to car salesmen, to mechanics... It's just one giant financial rape party.

In your shoes, I would get the cost estimates, and think real hard about just trading the damn thing in, getting a used car that is 1-2 years old, that's in good condition, and you should be good for a few years without much issue. It's not fool proof, and there is more to it than just the previous statement.. but it has always worked for me.
 
And back to being a Jeep Enthusiast. If you aren't, those things are gas guzzlers. There are a plethora of cars out there now (even '13-'14 models) that will get you 2x or even 3x the gas mileage. That right there could equate to ~$50 less/month on your total car/gas/insurance overhead.

Nothing against Jeeps at all (I often times think about grabbing one for the winters), but if you aren't a Jeep fan and don't live in harsh weather, you may want to grab something more efficient.
 
Chase, I'm not a huge mechanical expert, but my two cents. The Cylinder 6 misfire can be anything from a bad spark plug, or coil pack. The most expensive of these would be the coil pack (ignition coil) and that would cost you around $100. It's easy to replace it, so if you can do it yourself you'd save quite a bit of money. As for the engine oil pressure sensor and TF temp sensor, I'd check the spark plug, coil pack, etc. thing first, and sometimes when you fix that, the other codes will go away. Whenever I see a Chrysler product that starts "stuttering" at 40 mph, it's almost always the spark plug or coil pack going bad.
 
Originally posted by LineSkiCat:
All I know is failed sensors aren't too cheap.. Someone here will know more about pricing.

But unless you are a Jeep enthusiast, you might want to rethink what looks to be a costly repair on a car that is now over 10 years old with probably more than 100k miles. I personally hate dealing with anything car related. I think it's one of the biggest scumbag industries, from dealer owners, to car salesmen, to mechanics... It's just one giant financial rape party.

In your shoes, I would get the cost estimates, and think real hard about just trading the damn thing in, getting a used car that is 1-2 years old, that's in good condition, and you should be good for a few years without much issue. It's not fool proof, and there is more to it than just the previous statement.. but it has always worked for me.
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That's the truth. Fortunately, I learned in my younger days about cars and can fix most things. My daughter-in-law broke serpentine belt on her Camry and was getting ready to take it to the garage. I told her they will charge you $100 or more. Bring it to me and I'll have it fixed within the hour. I did.
 
Originally posted by Chuckinden:

Originally posted by LineSkiCat:
All I know is failed sensors aren't too cheap.. Someone here will know more about pricing.

But unless you are a Jeep enthusiast, you might want to rethink what looks to be a costly repair on a car that is now over 10 years old with probably more than 100k miles. I personally hate dealing with anything car related. I think it's one of the biggest scumbag industries, from dealer owners, to car salesmen, to mechanics... It's just one giant financial rape party.

In your shoes, I would get the cost estimates, and think real hard about just trading the damn thing in, getting a used car that is 1-2 years old, that's in good condition, and you should be good for a few years without much issue. It's not fool proof, and there is more to it than just the previous statement.. but it has always worked for me.
Click to expand...
That's the truth. Fortunately, I learned in my younger days about cars and can fix most things. My daughter-in-law broke serpentine belt on her Camry and was getting ready to take it to the garage. I told her they will charge you $100 or more. Bring it to me and I'll have it fixed within the hour. I did.
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That's the one friend I don't have, a gearhead who can fix this stuff. I got everything else covered.

The sad thing is that I do know people in the business, work friends, people who my family (I'm only 28) have known for decades.. and we still get taken to the woodshed. I cringe anytime my car needs work.
 
Could be spark plug. If not that, have them look at the valve springs.
 
You guys are way off. It's definitely a ball bearings and Fetzer valve problem. That's right...I said ball bearings. And I can fix it for you.

Awww, come on guys, it's so simple. Maybe you need a refresher course. Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State.

Learn automobiles.
 
Not to add to your misery but the autozone/advanced auto, etc code readers aren't the best either. Transmission wasn't acting right in my car. Took it there to get code read when the engine light came on. It read a solenoid had went bad on the transmission. Went to transmission shop to get it fixed. He hooked his computer to it and 3rd and 4th gear were actually completely out. Went from what I was figuring to be a $300-$500 fix to $1200. Take it to someone who has a more advanced diagnostics reader.
 
Originally posted by GrandePdre:
Chase, my ASM says if it has the 3.7L engine, it most likely just needs a good tune-up. Those engines need those about every 35K, he says. Now, if it's the 4.7L V-8, he's not sure without them looking it over.
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Thanks man.

It is the 3.7L, so I've got my fingers crossed. Scheduled to take it in on Friday and get an estimate.
 
You can't always go by the codes the computers at Advanced Auto Parts etc uses...They tend to be on the cheaper end of them and much less accurate than a repair facility has.

I had a vehicle that tripped all kinds of codes at Auto Zone so I was scared to death that it was going to cost me a fortune to fix...Took it to a repair facility, and they hooked up their computer and it only tripped a code for an O2 Sensor...It cost me a couple hundred bucks...I asked about all the other codes that had tripped at Auto Zone and the head mechanic told me what I said above. He said the computers that retail stores use will trip the right code but trips other ones because of the correct code being tripped...That error makes the computer believe that they other errors are also in play.
 
It doesn't matter. If you take it to a dealer they will find about $1500 worth of other stuff that needs fixing.
 
Not a reputable one...When I got my O2 sensor fixed, they never said a word one about needing other things.
 
Originally posted by willymakit63:
Not to add to your misery but the autozone/advanced auto, etc code readers aren't the best either. Transmission wasn't acting right in my car. Took it there to get code read when the engine light came on. It read a solenoid had went bad on the transmission. Went to transmission shop to get it fixed. He hooked his computer to it and 3rd and 4th gear were actually completely out. Went from what I was figuring to be a $300-$500 fix to $1200. Take it to someone who has a more advanced diagnostics reader.
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Or the first one was correct and he got you for an extra $700.00-$900.00.
 
I'd definitely look into the flux capacitor and make sure the positrack isn't getting jimmied up with the ball bearings, OP.
 
Like others said I would replace the coil and spark plug in cylinder 6. Disconnect the battery and reconnect it to reset the computer and see what it does. Good luck
Posted from Rivals Mobile
 
Like others said I would replace the coil and spark plug in cylinder 6. Disconnect the battery and reconnect it to reset the computer and see what it does. Good luck
Posted from Rivals Mobile
 
Years ago I used to own a Ford Focus that started to stutter above a certain speed. I believe it was around 50 or so if I remember correctly. The dealer saw that there was a recall on the fuel pump, assumed that was it, replaced it and sent me on my way without charge. Got it on the road and it was still acting up so I changed the spark plugs and it went back to normal. The car probably had a little more than 100k at the time. Im not saying thats your problem but the symptoms were the same. I cant recall what lights may have been on in the dash, however.
 
Chase, turn the key from "off" to "on", 3 times within 5 seconds. Leave it turned to "on". This will show your current codes on the instrument cluster.

You should see a code of P0306, This means you have a misfire on number 6 but doesn't tell you why. Could be what others have said, could be a fuel injector. At least you'll know what your jeep says is the problem.

Go down to the McDonalds or Waffle House where the old dudes gather in the morning to shoot the shit. Ask them who the best mechanic in town is. They'll give you the name of the local guy that won't rip you off.
 
I agree on the spark plug and coil pack. Easy 10 minute DIY job. You can probably find a youtube video on how to do it. Try swapping out the coil pack in the auto parts store's parking lot. If it doesn't change the way it runs, take it back. Sometimes they will take the part back if you tell them ahead of time what you are trying to do. Even if the coil pack fixes the problem you may have to drive the car several miles before the check engine light will go off.
 
Inverse reactive current in the unilateral phase detractors can cause automatic synchronizing of the cardinal grammeters.

Basically, this happens when power is being poorly generated by the relative motion of conductors and fluxes produced by the modial interaction of magneto-reluctance and capacitive diractance.

The base plate of pre-famulated amulite surmounted by the malleable logarithmic casing containing the two spurving bearings is in direct line with the panametric fam. The latter, consisting of six hydrocoptic marzlevanes fitted to the ambifacient lunar waneshaft causes side fumbling of the main winding on the normal lotus-o-delta type placed in panendermic semi-boloid slots of the stator, every seventh conductor being connected by a non-reversible termie pipe to the differential girdle spring on the "up" end of the grammies.

A new turbo-encabulator can replace the obsolete novertrunnions factory installed in this model, thus fixing the problem and also providing the extra benefit of a smooth forescent skor motion in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce soinasoidal repleneration.

It's not cheap, but this is what any competent mechanic would reccomend.
 
Change your plugs and wires, parts cost should be less than 100 and you can do the job yourself.
 
Ended up needing to change all the spark plugs, also got an oil change and the tires rotated. $220.00. I didn't think that was too bad. Thanks for all the help.
 
Originally posted by willymakit63:
Not to add to your misery but the autozone/advanced auto, etc code readers aren't the best either. Transmission wasn't acting right in my car. Took it there to get code read when the engine light came on. It read a solenoid had went bad on the transmission. Went to transmission shop to get it fixed. He hooked his computer to it and 3rd and 4th gear were actually completely out. Went from what I was figuring to be a $300-$500 fix to $1200. Take it to someone who has a more advanced diagnostics reader.
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So the guy with more skin in the game told you it wasn't a cheap fix?

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Sucker
 
Originally posted by GrandePdre:
Chase, my ASM says if it has the 3.7L engine, it most likely just needs a good tune-up. Those engines need those about every 35K, he says. Now, if it's the 4.7L V-8, he's not sure without them looking it over.
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My dakota has a 3.7L engine with 115,000+ miles.........I haven't touched the engine except oil, and filters
at this mileage it probably needs some tune up work, but runs great..
 
Originally posted by _Chase_:
Ended up needing to change all the spark plugs, also got an oil change and the tires rotated. $220.00. I didn't think that was too bad. Thanks for all the help.
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Let's see....$40 for plugs....$25 oil & filter....$30 tire bal & rotation. $95 total is what it would've cost me.
 
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